Buying a Used Power Tool? Check the Cord and Battery First

The parts of a used power tool that fail first are the ones that carry the electricity: the plug and cord on a corded tool, and the battery on a cordless one. Check those two before you look at anything else, and you will avoid most of the bad buys. The housing, the sound and the smell come next, and the whole inspection takes about five minutes.

Before you pay for a used tool, check the cord or the battery. Then check what you plug it into.

Why the electrical parts come first

A tool's body is usually tough. The cord is not. It gets stepped on, yanked, coiled tight and pinched in doors. A battery pack is a consumable part that wears out whatever the brand. This Old House's secondhand buying guide notes that battery packs on cordless tools may last only a few years, and that replacements can be expensive. A cordless drill at half price can turn into a full-price purchase the day the pack gives up.

There is also a bigger reason to care. The U.S. Fire Administration estimates that in 2021, about 24,200 residential building electrical fires were reported to U.S. fire departments. They caused about 295 deaths, 900 injuries and more than $1.2 billion in property loss. Not all of those involved tools, but the lesson holds: damaged cords and overloaded cords are not a cosmetic problem.

The seven-check inspection

Take this list to a pickup or a preview day. Most of these checks cost nothing and need no equipment.

Every row above comes from the checks This Old House lists for used tools. One of its tips is worth underlining: if a tool does not sound right, shut it off and find the problem rather than carrying on.

Corded or cordless: which check matters more

Corded tools are simple, and the cord is the thing to inspect. Look along the whole length, not just near the plug. The guide's advice is blunt: skip tools with frayed, loose, exposed or taped wires. It also suggests replacing a damaged cord rather than repairing it. If you are not sure you can do that safely, a tool with a bad cord is not a bargain.

Cordless tools are the opposite. The motor is often fine and the battery is the unknown. Run the tool long enough to see that the pack holds up, and ask how old the tool is. If a seller can't tell you, that is information too.

A practical tip for anyone who already owns a brand: a bare tool without a battery can be a good buy if it fits the batteries you already have. Check the model before you commit, because the pack is the part that costs real money.

The extension cord is part of the purchase

Many people buy a used corded tool and then plug it into whatever cord is in the garage. The U.S. Fire Administration's guidance on extension cords and power strips is short and worth following:

1. Replace extension cords that are worn, old or damaged, and do it promptly.
2. Keep cords out of places where they can be pinched or damaged, such as under carpets or rugs.
3. Do not go over a power strip's load capacity.
4. Choose power strips that have built-in overload protection.
5. Plug large appliances such as refrigerators, ranges, washers and dryers straight into a wall outlet, never through an extension cord. The cord can overheat and ignite.

The same page also says to replace any appliance with a cracked, damaged or loose cord. That is the same rule you applied at the pickup, applied again at home.

If you are not certain what size cord your tool needs, read the rating plate on the tool and the label on the cord, and when in doubt ask a hardware store or an electrician. This article is general information, not electrical advice for your particular home.

Which used tools are the safer buy

This Old House does not rank tool types, but it does give a useful steer: favor contractor-grade tools. They have heavier parts and are built to last longer than standard do-it-yourself models. Makita, Milwaukee, DeWalt, Bosch and Ridgid are the examples it names.

It also lists three warning signs that apply to any tool:

• A price that looks too low for a high-end tool.
• A seller who won't show you the tool working.
• A big mixed lot sold without any explanation.

If you buy from a shop rather than a stranger, you can see the condition details before you commit. On DealsDMV, each listing is described on its own page. Condition and pickup details are in the help pages, and you can browse by category or look at the Buy Now and auction listings. Whatever you buy, use the same seven checks.

Before you bring it home: recalls and other basics

Two quick extras take a few minutes. First, search the brand and model for a recall. The five-minute method is in Check This Before Buying Secondhand: A 5-Minute Recall Test. Second, if you are also shopping for ladders to go with the project, see Buying a Used Ladder? 7 Checks Before You Climb.

Local note for Maryland, DC and Virginia: older houses in the region often have few outlets in garages and basements, which is exactly when people reach for long, thin extension cords. If you can, put the workbench near an outlet and keep the cord short. It is the same idea as the USFA rule: the less you stretch a cord, the less there is to fail.

The bottom line

A used power tool is worth buying when the cord or battery is sound, the motor starts smoothly with no smoke or smell, and the seller can tell you its age. It is not worth buying with taped wires, a battery that fades or a story that does not add up. Then give the tool a good cord at home: replace anything worn, and never run a big appliance through an extension cord.

Know someone setting up a workshop? Send them this list before they buy.